🚤 Venice
"Yes, go. No, not in August. Please, not in August."
Venice in summer is a humanitarian crisis disguised as a tourist destination. Venice in January is one of the most extraordinary cities in the world. Plan accordingly.
Where to stay
Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Castello
Near San Marco, near the train station
What to eat
Cicchetti
Small plates at bacari (wine bars). Baccalà mantecato, sardines in saor, tiny sandwiches. €1.50–3 each.
Ombra
Small glass of local white wine. €1–2. Order at a bacaro, drink standing.
Sarde in saor
Sardines marinated in onions, vinegar, raisins, and pine nuts. Medieval recipe, still incredible.
Rialto market
Go at 8am on a weekday. Best produce and fish in the city, no tourists.
What to actually do
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Get lost deliberately — turn off Google Maps for 2 hours and just walk.
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Vaporetto line 1 down the Grand Canal at sunset. €9.50, best boat ride in Europe.
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Visit Murano for the glass — take the vaporetto, spend 2 hours, come back. Skip Burano unless you love lace.
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Early morning at the Rialto fish market (Tuesday–Saturday, closed by noon).
What to skip
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Gondola rides (€80+ for 30 minutes, entirely for tourists).
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Any restaurant with photos on the menu near San Marco.
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Venice in peak summer if you have any choice at all.