🍕 Naples
"Chaotic, loud, overwhelming, and home to the best pizza on earth."
Naples is not for everyone. The traffic is anarchic, the streets are chaotic, and the city operates by rules that are not immediately legible. It is also one of the most alive cities in Italy, with the best street food, the best pizza, and an energy that you don't find anywhere else.
Where to stay
Spaccanapoli, Chiaia, Vomero
Central Station area
What to eat
Pizza napoletana
Margherita or Marinara. Soft crust, simple toppings, wood-fired. At Da Michele or Sorbillo. €5–8.
Sfogliatella
Shell-shaped pastry, ricotta filling. Buy it fresh from a pasticceria, eat it hot.
Ragù napoletano
Slow-cooked meat sauce, completely different from Bolognese. Sunday only in most places.
Street food on Spaccanapoli
Frittatina di pasta, cuoppo of fried seafood. Walk and eat.
What to actually do
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Day trip to Pompeii — take the Circumvesuviana train (€2.80). Go first thing in the morning.
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Capodimonte museum — Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael. Zero tourists. Free Sunday mornings.
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Walk Spaccanapoli end to end at any time of day.
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Take the funicular up to Vomero for the view and the local neighborhood feel.
What to skip
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Don't stress about safety — Naples has a bad reputation that is mostly outdated. Use normal city sense.
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The Amalfi Coast in summer (traffic nightmare). Go in May or October.